Hammerhead 

FA:  Pat Gilbreath, Anita Gilbreath, John Sage Type:  Trad, Sport Consensus:  5.10a [details] Length:  75 feet Views: 44 page views Submitted By: Alex Hardt on Nov 12, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: View up from the bottom of the Glitter Box.

Description 

Climb a broken crack to the first bolt using cams or stoppers for protection. Follow 5 bolts up the face to a chimney up to the tree. Use cams and stoppers to set up a top rope anchor to the left of the tree and rappel off the tree when done.

Stay over the bolts to keep it a 5.10a - the 5.10a part is only one or two moves near a slight bulge about midway through the climb. If you move left to the corner at the crux, the climb drops to a 5.8 or 5.9.

Location 

Hammerhead is located about 30 feet to the right of Three Amigos on the south face in the Glitter Box area of Lower Devils Canyon. From the start of Three Amigos, you can see the top of Hammerhead which ends at a tree growing out of a chimney above and to the right of the start of Three Amigos. To get to the start, go down to the bottom of the Glitter Box by rappelling down using the two rap chains east of Three Amigos or hike down and around to the bottom of the Glitter Box.

Protection 

5 bolts plus cams and stoppers for protection to the first bolt. Medium cams and/or stoppers are needed to set up an anchor at the top of the route. Webbing or slings are needed to rappel off the tree.