The Totem Pole 5.10c/d
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 150 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Mike on Sep 18, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: I could think of other names for this ~(:
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Description A tall, slender tower in a scenic location with good climbing and a tiny summit make for a great route. Start low on the NE side and climb up and right, slowly circling around to the West side to a belay. Belay here to avoid rope drag or, with a long rope, continue up to the top.
Protection Mostly bolted, but up high (at the crux) it helps to place a nut or two to reduce the slight runout.
Location Walk down into the main canyon from the parking area. There will be 2 tall towers on the right. The upper one is Proto-pipe (it looks just like one) and the lower one is the Totem Pole.
Totem Pole
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Totem Pole
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2nd Pitch.
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Totem pole, shmotem pole
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Totem Pole
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Tony and Dobie on top of TP on Sat. Feb. 6th -- ta...
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BETA PHOTO: Geir leads pitch 2 of the Totem Pole.
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unknown climber ends the day on the pole
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Sometimes you just gotto warm up a bit!
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| Comments on The Totem Pole |
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By Braxtron
From: ...
Oct 15, 2007
rating: 5.10+
| You better like bushwhackin' to do the approach for this one. Bring small stoppers for the end of P2. I linked both pitches with no problems using 2' runners and a 60m rope.
As of Oct. 2007, both anchors need attention. One bolt at each belay is either spinning or flexing. |
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Nov 15, 2007
| The access road has been greatly improved and is now accessable with a high-clearance 2WD vehicle all the way to the Hackberry Creek turnout parking. |
By JimmyK
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 24, 2009
rating: 5.10c/d
| Need a #4 nut to protect the top portion of the 2nd pitch. There was a little bushwackin' but the approach was only 15 minutes from vehicle.
Directions to Lower Devil Climbing area: From US 60, exit south on Oak Flat Road Campground road, travel 1.3 miles on paved road, take left on a gravel road. Drive about 2 miles on gravel road, at the bottom of the meadow, take a left at the old windmill (still there as of 01/17/09). Drive appx 1 mile to the road end. (Gravel road is rough, high clearence 4 wheel drive recommended!) |
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.10+
| Just one or two small nuts for the top! And, a 00 cam just doesn't work that well...A truly exceptional climb. |
By Doug113
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 16, 2010
| climbed this summer of 09 and thought it was a great route. a bit of bushwacking to get to it though. nice shade though when you reach it. |
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 17, 2010
| Fun climbing to a terrific summit make this a classic for me!
Most of the climbing is straightforward - maybe 5.9. The moves after the final bolt feel 10 to 10+. A medium stopper works well to protect the crux and I a found a bomber black alien placement after the crux.
Marcy and I took a pair of clippers with us on the approach trail and pruned back the vegetation, so the climb is much easier to get to now. Just go to the rock gully at the edge of the canyon, turn right, and follow the cairns toward the pole. |
By roman d
From: Tempe, AZ
Apr 4, 2011
rating: 5.10d
| Route length is ~115 feet. Straightforward to rap the whole thing with a single 70m rope. Bats in summit crack chirped at me when I got to the top! |
By Micah Kurtz
Feb 21, 2012
| A great route for sure. The summit is amazing. |
By Dwight Jugornot
Mar 9, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d
| What a blast. The summit, the view. Just about perfect. Did it as one pitch on my 70. and one rap to ground no problem. For me the crux below the first belay felt 10d? The top crux felt 10-. Plenty of places for pro above the last bolt. |
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