BETA PHOTO: I could think of other names for this ~(:
Description
A tall, slender tower in a scenic location with good climbing and a tiny summit make for a great route. Start low on the NE side and climb up and right, slowly circling around to the West side to a belay. Belay here to avoid rope drag or, with a long rope, continue up to the top.
Protection
Mostly bolted, but up high (at the crux) it helps to place a nut or two to reduce the slight runout.
Location
Walk down into the main canyon from the parking area. There will be 2 tall towers on the right. The upper one is Proto-pipe (it looks just like one) and the lower one is the Totem Pole.
You better like bushwhackin' to do the approach for this one. Bring small stoppers for the end of P2. I linked both pitches with no problems using 2' runners and a 60m rope.
As of Oct. 2007, both anchors need attention. One bolt at each belay is either spinning or flexing.
The access road has been greatly improved and is now accessable with a high-clearance 2WD vehicle all the way to the Hackberry Creek turnout parking.
By JimmyK From: Flagstaff, AZ Jan 24, 2009 rating: 5.10c/d
Need a #4 nut to protect the top portion of the 2nd pitch. There was a little bushwackin' but the approach was only 15 minutes from vehicle. Directions to Lower Devil Climbing area: From US 60, exit south on Oak Flat Road Campground road, travel 1.3 miles on paved road, take left on a gravel road. Drive about 2 miles on gravel road, at the bottom of the meadow, take a left at the old windmill (still there as of 01/17/09). Drive appx 1 mile to the road end. (Gravel road is rough, high clearence 4 wheel drive recommended!)
By arjunmh From: Phoenix, AX Jun 15, 2009 rating: 5.10+
Just one or two small nuts for the top! And, a 00 cam just doesn't work that well...A truly exceptional climb.
I've only seen this rated in the foldout Karabin guide and rc.knob, but I'm wondering at the discrepancy between the 11- rating from those two sources and the the 10+ here. Is that another guidebook's rating or is the consensus I was just climbing the crux wrong? It seems a fair climb at 10D or 11- to me, 10C would be getting into the sandbagged range.
Regardless, I had a great time and managed this one clean. The way I pulled the route crux (on pitch one I believe) was an exciting lock off on two slopers to a left side pull. The exact supplementary rack to the bolts I used was a #3 camalot down low, a yellow alien up higher in a horizontal seam on the first pitch, and then a gold Dmm offset nut and the red c3 in the finishing crack.
Easily the best climb I've done at QC to date as it is actually interesting.
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