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DescriptionDespite having arguably the best climbing in Queen Creek, Lower Devil's Canyon gets relatively little traffic due to it's difficult aproach. Getting ThereTake the Oak Flat Road past the campground. About 1/4 mile before the mine, turn left on the rough dirt road (close the gate behind you!) and follow it for a few miles on an ever-worsening road until just past a meadow. Turn left at the bottom of the wash (at the old windmill) and drive for another mile or so to the end of the road and park. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Devil's Canyon:
Smokin' The Toad 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet Hackberry Creek
Three Amigos 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch Glitter Box Area
Going Out Of Chicken Sale 5.9- Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Coop
El Throatchoker Grande 5.9- Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Lunchbox
Accelerated Climbology 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 165 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Climbology Area
Dacite Conspiracy 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet Hackberry Creek
The Last Chicken 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Coop
Faith, Hope & Jeep 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Microskunk Area
Microskunks with Cholla Coats 5.10a Trad, 140 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Microskunk Area
The Shmotem Pole 5.10b Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Shmotem Pole
Centipede Corner 5.10c Trad, 110 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Lunchbox
The Totem Pole 5.10c/d Sport, 2 pitches, 150 feet Glitter Box Area
Featured Route For Lower Devil's Canyon
Centipede Corner 5.10c AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : ... : The Lunchbox
Centipede corner is the beautiful, right-leaning crack and corner system on the west face of the Lunchbox.This climb has multiple cruxes, the first of which is near the start of the climb. The gear is solid and spaced out just enough to make the climb interesting. A 60m rope is just long enough to rap the route with rope stretch. Be careful and make sure your rope is the whole way down. For those who come up a bit short, stop at the top of Ho...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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