Mountain Project: Climbing Queen Creek Canyon

Despite having arguably the best climbing in Queen Creek, Lower Devil's Canyon gets relatively little traffic due to it's difficult aproach.

Getting There

Take the Oak Flat Road past the campground. About 1/4 mile before the mine, turn left on the rough dirt road (close the gate behind you!) and follow it for a few miles on an ever-worsening road until just past a meadow. Turn left at the bottom of the wash (at the old windmill) and drive for another mile or so to the end of the road and park.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lower Devil's Canyon:

Smokin' The Toad 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet Hackberry Creek

Three Amigos 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch Glitter Box Area

Going Out Of Chicken Sale 5.9- Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Coop

El Throatchoker Grande 5.9- Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Lunchbox

Accelerated Climbology 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 165 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Climbology Area

Dacite Conspiracy 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet Hackberry Creek

The Last Chicken 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Coop

Faith, Hope & Jeep 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Microskunk Area

Microskunks with Cholla Coats 5.10a Trad, 140 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Microskunk Area

The Shmotem Pole 5.10b Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Shmotem Pole

Centipede Corner 5.10c Trad, 110 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Lunchbox

The Totem Pole 5.10c/d Sport, 2 pitches, 150 feet Glitter Box Area

Featured Route For Lower Devil's Canyon

David Arthur Sampson leading Centipede Corner

Centipede Corner 5.10c AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : ... : The Lunchbox

Centipede corner is the beautiful, right-leaning crack and corner system on the west face of the Lunchbox.This climb has multiple cruxes, the first of which is near the start of the climb. The gear is solid and spaced out just enough to make the climb interesting. A 60m rope is just long enough to rap the route with rope stretch. Be careful and make sure your rope is the whole way down. For those who come up a bit short, stop at the top of Ho...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ

Comments on Lower Devil's Canyon

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By Marcy
Oct 3, 2009
CONDITION REPORT

The road out to Lower Devil's Canyon has been graded between the big hill and the Hackberry parking pullout and is now passable by passenger cars!!! Obviously, this will change with rain and use, therefore, use your own judgement when driving in. The last section of road between the Hackberry pullout and the road termination is improved but still requires high clearance 4wd.

By Geir Hundal
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 21, 2009

Lower Devil's Canyon has some of the best climbing in the Phoenix area and should not be missed! Driving time to this area is about an hour, and the approach from the 2WD parking area is only about 30 minutes. For those with 4WD, you can park right next to it.

For those of you who have Google Earth, I put together a map showing the road in to LD along with the 2WD and 4WD parking spots.

The google earth file can be downloaded from http://www.geir.com/googleearth/phoenix/

Once in this file, simply click on the file you want and select "open" from the window that appears. Follow the prompts from there and the road will display in Google Earth on your computer.

It works well, but I'm still learning to streamline the process of downloading the file so bear with me as I learn. :)

Google Earth can be downloaded for free at http://www.googleearth.com

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Lower Devil's Canyon

Description

Getting There

The Classics