BETA PHOTO: Past the crux and cruising on fun holds. Photo by...
Description
Climb the arete past several bolts. The crux is near the bottom, making a reachy move up and left to a nice pocket, then up and right on smaller holds to a decent rest on the arete. Cruise on nice holds to the top.
Location
Located a bit upstream, just past the dam, on the south side (opposite of the road) on a nice arete.
Tried to lead this little gem today. After the first bolt I was completely shut down by lack of nerves to get to the second. Ledge fall...ground fall highly probable. Humid day mid-summer with funky and committing moves up the arete.
Lieback (check) feet up (check) possible mangler (check) = no go! Too nervous. Maybe next time.
I'm blaming it on the weather. Couldn't possibly be me, right?
Susan This route does, at first, seem a bit heady. I know, because I also saw what you did (a year ago or so). I went back with Laurel (last Sat) and, really, it is safe. A key bomber left hand pocket (can be reached from the ledge, with some effort) lets you safely clip the second bolt. From there a heady (safe) move to good holds lets off to a nice climb to the top.