BETA PHOTO: Wifebeater starts on the pocket and edge and goes ...
Description
Start on a couple of sloping holds and make a move to a two finger pocket, get your feet up and get ready for the hardest part, cut your right foot, campus up to a bad sloper and stick it (HARD!), then match on the left side of the dip get your left foot up and make the super hard/crux mantle.
Location
Left side of boulder, it is the one with lots O' chalk.
Protection
Pads and spotter, the fall from this one sends you rolling down a hill if you don't have a great spotter. Watch your ankles landing on your pad, there is a ledgey rock hiding in there.
F.A. was by Jimmy Symans. V8 was the original rating with hard beta. Better beta downrates to V5. How else could the Wifebeater game be won with 30 back to back ascents with no rest. Ryan Taylor holds that record.
By Andrew Ryder From: Flagstaff, AZ May 1, 2009 rating: V7-8
Because Flagstaff is full of honemasters, and wiring something into submission doesn't mean it's any easier grade-wise. Wifebeater is not a V5.
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