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Y-Crack Boulder
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Y Crack 

5.9

   

FA: Pete Noebels, Dennis Abbink, Larry Treiber
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 65 feet, Grade V
Views: 98 page views

Submitted By: Ryan Myers on Apr 6, 2009


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Y Crack


Description 

BURLY... good luck


Protection 

Big gear if youre going to try and lead it... best to climb Turtles Piss on the backside and top-rope Y crack



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By Pernell
From: Arizona
Sep 2, 2009

Grade V ?

By Greg Opland
Administrator
Sep 2, 2009

Hell yeah, that thing's tuff!!!

By Pernell
From: Arizona
Sep 2, 2009

I'll drink to that. Sometime last spring, Sean and I climbed it w/o a #6 and later on that afternoon, somewhere over by the wedge, we were talking to another climbing group. One of the guys was surprised Sean did it groudup and exclaimed that it is a 5.9 TR and 5.11 groudup? WTF? Absolutely no offense to Sean's great lead, but I've never heard of route grades changing like that?

By Greg Opland
Administrator
Sep 3, 2009

Guessing sport climber with no clue about climbing. I always thought the hardest thing about Y-Crack is that rock is always peeling off the thing. Take a couple of big pieces and you're basically on TR anyway.

By Zeke
From: Phoenix
Sep 21, 2009

What is the gear beta? Can you get away with a coupla #5 C4s, or is a #6 strictly necessary? I guess I could always do the honorable thing and just attempt it with what I have.

By Greg Opland
Administrator
Sep 21, 2009

I've done it a few times and never had anything all that big. I'd think a couple of #5's would work fine. You can bump the bottom one up and then leave it, then work on the upper one. As I recall, it gets a little smaller as you go, so better have the #4, #3.5 and #3 ready too. Then some other assorted stuff for the part above the ledge.

Might be time for another lap on that thing. Been a while.