BETA PHOTO: Start of the second pitch. The unknown climber is...
Description
First pitch: Left chimney 4th class scramble to belay bolts just below the sundeck boulder. It's easier than it might look at first sight. Second pitch: Go around a triangluar boulder and up another boulder to access a large crack. Follow wide crack to small chimney with a bolt on left face with which you can pass a sort of bulge and climb up to a large ledge/tunnell area with two belay bolts. If you stop here then this can be done in three pitches, or you can continue up the chimney area with plenty of protection placements to another ledge area, move left and up a sort of ramp to the summit. Here you will find three huge rappell anchors as well as 4 or 5 bolts and hangars.
Location
The start is obvious at the top of the trail to the pinacle. However, Weekend Rock topo shows the line going up the right chimney on the first pitch but that looks much harder and all the other topos I had showed it going up the left side which turned out to be pretty easy.
Protection
1 bolt besides the three sets of belay bolts. Many places for large nuts, I only had a #.75 and #1 Cam and I think I used both but probably didn't have too. A couple of slings around outcroppings on the second pitch. The first pitch (4th class) we used no protection.
I know it's not the hardest thing to grunt through, but shouldn't this line get a little more respect than 5.3? The two roofs on the second pitch are definitely strong climbing moves.
I think that compared to other climbs at Pinacle Peak 5.3 is fair. When I first came to PP I thought everything was much harder than rated but that was because I had never climbed on granite before.
Pinnacle Peak
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