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Two Cams and a Jam 

5.9

   

FA: Chuck Hill, Pat Reineke, 1986
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 50 feet
Season: Fall through Spring
Views: 166 page views

Submitted By: Orphaned on Apr 10, 2006


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Description 

This is a nice crack route at the grade. The crack pinches off at the top, so you might not be getting those bomber pieces in the last ten feet. Wide crack start with face holds, then jam straight up, using pockets in the upper half. Ten feet from the top, the crack is no more and you have to face climb the rest of the way. Meticulous face climbing will get you there!


Location 

Crack system running up the wall just right of King Of Pain face. Just left-center of the lower CFE tier. A right-arching crack (Banana Crack) starts at the same place, but Two Cams goes straight up.


Protection 

Assortment of cams from 1/2" up to #3 Camalot. The last good hole for pro is #1 Camalot size. Bring a #3.5 and #4 Camalot for belay pro in crack running left of the top.



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By rickd
Sep 7, 2007

being over confident post accident, I went out to lead this with Frank Valendo and popped the first piece at about 12'.

Pasta opened up his arms and caught me, damn- that's a good belayer!