The climb starts with a some face climbing, finger and hand jams to a ledge(5.11-). Traverse right on the ledge to the obvious crack. Climb the crack(tips to hands) to the rim.
Location
1st crack system right of the prow, shares same start as mutiny on the bounty
Protection
black alien, doubles tips to thin hands(.3-1 camalot),1 hand size(#2 camalot)
Sorry, thought I'd updated the FA info: FA Paul Davidson, Tim Coats, Jim Haisley, early '80's, with some effort. The start then was easier then, since a column on the lower section has fallen over since the FA.
Although this climb has a 15-foot stretch of awesome and intense climbing, it is by no means a 4-star route. Detracting from it are the average start which is shared with other routes as well as the ledge in the middle which breaks the route's continuity. In my opinion, to gain max stars there has to be both awesome moves as well as a sustained nature like The Prow, Davidson Dihedral, Paradise Lost. I give Sail Away 3-stars.
The "average start" was originally not shared with the other routes. They came later on. Not sure what's average about the start. I recall (which doesn't mean much these days) it being steep and no give away.
While I agree Paradise Lost is overall a cleaner climb, it doesn't come close to Sail Away for pure crack moves. PL is a basically a lieback. You can't really cheat your way up SA.
Well... you can (A) yard on gear, (B) TR it first.
As for stars, grades, etc.... to each his own but I'm more up with Salathe's, "Why can't we just climb?" I've done no star routes I thought were awesome and 4 star routes that I thought were heaps. I've done routes that one day were 4 stars for me and another time were no stars. It's just all too subjective. Better to just rack and roll.
I find a great deal of value and enjoyment in star ratings for climbs. Like a fine wine, the quality of a climb is purely subjective although most climbs considered "classics" have widespread reverence. Like wine, climbs can change over time with holds disappearing (or hopefully not being added). My bottle of '94 Chateau Latour is nothing like the vintage before or after it and the Joker is not the same route since the opening "jug" broke off (I think it's better). My palate for wine has changed over the years, as have my preferences for climbs. You're probably sitting there thinking either 1) what's with this wine snob posing as a climber, or 2) I'd like to come over to this guy's house for dinner.
The bottom line is that I think grading quality of climbs is very important, although the most important ratings are your own. I find it a worthwhile and rewarding endeavor comparing my thoughts to others such as yours, others on the site and authors of guidebooks. The details of whether Paradise Lost is a better climb than Sail Away or vise versa are irrelevant. I didn't know Salathe, but I imagine he spent many of his finest hours engaged in passionate discussions about "the classics".
By Mike From: Phoenix Jul 25, 2008 rating: 5.12a/b
The Prow
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