The ultra-steep, ultra-thin, ultra-powerful crux o...
Description
One of the classic forks tips cracks. Start just right of the Prow OW, at a thin crack in broken rock. Climb this finger crack (5.10+) to a ledge. Move to the left side of the ledge, then up the clean steep tips crack in a tight stemming or layback corner. Eats up green Aliens/.3 Camalots. Some people move left into a slightly wider (yellow Alien?) splitter crack. 5.11+ either way.
Location
Just right of the OW at the base of the prow at a thin crack in chunky rock.
Protection
2 each to #1 Camalot, 1 #2 Camalot, with 4 or 5 green Alien size. I place 4, but 5 might be nice for an onsight attempt.
As with everything people have different suggestions, My gear list is usually 1 green alien (I use a red BD C3), heavy in blue BD microcams (0.3) and grey BD microcams (0.4) and then 2 0.5 camalot jr, and 3 0.75 camalot jrs and no (0) 1.0camalots (red)
will someone else please post more photos of this route, maybe from ground up. i think the falcon guide book has fucked up on this route if not then this route is way harder then the 6 move Mayflower direct
Woops, looked a little closer, deleted my last comment.
The line labeled '20' in the Falcon Guide is indeed in the wrong place. From the ledge Mutiny traverses off left and goes up the tips corner. The seam that goes straight up where the book shows Mutiny is very hard, probably 5.12ish, harder than Sail Away I thought. Not sure if it's been led or not. Sail Away goes up from the right side of the ledge.
The Prow
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