Tavis digging deep on crux one of three on the Aci...
Description
Located directly above the pond on the far lefthand side of the Gold wall. A bouldery, unprotectable start (R?) leads to the start of the crack and a shallow dihedral. Jam your way through several distinct cruxes, jamming and face.
Location
Far left side of the Gold wall
Protection
Sparse at the bottom. I tried it once from the ground without preplacing a piece and it was unnerving to say the least. Off balance moves. The rest of the route is G. Wires, and double set.
Excelent route, one of the best for sure. I probably wouldn't go so far as to call this R, since the runout is 5.10 climbing on a 12a route. You get a bomber #1 Camalot at about 10 ft. I was a bit scared the first time up since I hadn't TR'd the start, but it turned out to be pretty solid. I actually think the start of TL Bush is worse (because you can't bail and jump in a pond if you get scared).
Just a bit of history/ correction for the readers: the name "Acid Test Crack" originated with an early attempt and eventually successful top rope ascent by Paul Davidson (I'm sure psychedelic drugs had nothing to do with it!). But later (early 80's?) Heinz Zak passed through on a climbing trip and on-sighted it on lead- renaming the route "Ice Cream Memories". So with all respect to my buddy Paul and the cam-lobe-shaped dent on his forehead from testing the gear at the start, I think the route should actually be called "Ice Cream Memories". Cheers, Larry Coats
Actually, I think Heinz named it Ice Cream Dreams...
Jump off the start into the Pond ? Huh... Either the pond is way full or someone's tripping. Given that you're climbing above a bunch of broken blocks with lousy landings and you've got what, 20ft of high ball, sounds like an R to me. I sure don't recall any bomber piece on that loose start. As Larry mentioned, I have the scar to prove it. I placed the gear and stood on it then decided to bounce on it to test it. Thwack... right between the eyes. Maybe someone has cleaned the route off and opened up the crack ?
I personally think Acid Test is a better name than Ice Cream whatever, but it's a long standing tradition that the first lead gets to name a route.
BTW - Heinz was there the day we TR'd it (Tim and I) clean. I suspect seeing us on it might have suggested it as a lead to him. We did tell him that the crack would protect very well and the bottom for shit. Of course, there were no TCU's back then. Heinz just ran it.
Yea, the pond was way full one day and for some reason I was having trouble getting gear in the pod. I looked back and saw I could jump for it, but ended up getting the gear in instead. I think that pod must have been cleaned up because now it's a solid #1 camelot. Never tested it though.
Well, I have held my tongue on this one for a while, and it may be nit-picky, but there is absolutely no reason that Acid Test should get any less than four stars... This is pointed at you Mark. Did you have a bad day or something? Fail to redpoint? Let's give a little more love to a classic NAZ testpiece that has driven generations of local climbers to not only achieve greater levels of strength, skill, and courage; but an aesthetical appreciation of what a goergous line looks like. Just had to get that off my chest. If you ever read this, do sack up, and give it some respect.