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T.L. Bush 

5.10 PG13

   

FA: Paul Davidson, Larry and Tim Coats
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 257 page views

Submitted By: Kole DeCou on May 26, 2006


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Climber working the layback portion of this route.


Description 

Another classic 5.10, and a good one for those who don't like jamming.

I thought the first 15' of crimping with no gear was the crux. Bad landing, so don't fall. After that it's a well protected romp on liebacks and jugs.


Location 

Look for a 10' clean lieback corner about 40 ft up the wall, the 3rd major corner left of Standard Forks 5.8.


Protection 

2-3 each green Alien - #2 Camalot, 1 #3 or #3.5 for the start.



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By Larry Coats
Oct 28, 2007

On the first ascent a "lost" technique was used to protect the moves off the ground- a nut toss into the obvious slot. If you still carry hexes, it still works to this day!

By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 18, 2008

A great route with a heads up start. It is about 15" of 5.8 climbing with no pro to an atomic bomb proof #3 Camalot when the seam opens into a pod. The lieback is short but fierce. A strong climber could climb it straight on (.75 Camalot size) but I laidback for all I was worth. The remainder of the route climbs from stance to stance with great gear.

Larry - I have been working on my "cam toss" technique, but it just doesn't seem to work that great...