John Doskicz powers up the slick stems and flaring...
Description
Davidson Dihedral is a clean fingers and off-fingers left-facing book that will challenge those forearms. Supposedly, the route received it's name before it was climbed, because local climbers thought that Paul Davidson was the only one who could lead it. He wanted to call it "Pillowing", but as history has shown, no dice.
I've heard lots of hard-charging climbers suggesting a lower rating for this route after a few toprope ascents. It should be remembered that routes of that day were (and should be, in my opinion) given their grade based on a lead experience. On this route, hanging around to slap cams in makes it harder.
Location
This clean dihedral sits sandwiched between Pillow Talk and Pillow Fight routes.
On lead it slimy but really not THAT bad, actually pretty soft for a 5.11d especially as compared to Mutiny on the Bounty on the Prow Wall. No nuts are really necessary. A suggested rack for an onsite attempt (which will leave you with ample gear choices) rack is 2x0.3 microcamalots (blue), 3x0.4 microcamalots (grey), 2x 0.5 camalot jrs (maroon), and 2x0.75 camalot jrs (green). Its super fun and I will usually lead it every or every other time I'm at the Forks.
Personally, I thought this lead was 12a. But I was whimp climbing in orange PAs (ok, with Brand X rubber.) TCU's were still a few years away but I sure did like having those #1 and #2 Friends. And it never crossed any of our minds to even think about trying this on TR.
Many climbs have been downgraded over the years due to advances in gear, added pro, Beta, etc... Not to mention that sport climbing has brought a whole new outlook on things. Queenfolia was uber steep when we put it up. Now it's laid back by gym standards. Such is evolution.
Every time I go back the Forks, I'm just amazed by the TRs everywhere. Not good for the erosion on the top and certainly not in keeping with the original ground up ethics.
We were often accused of keeping this area secret just so we could bag all the firsts. While there is a hint of truth to that, it was more about keeping the area pristine. We knew others would not respect the local ethics of ground up, chalkless ascents. Funny thing, we were right about that.
Imagine what this beatiful place would look like with out all the chalk or the erosion on top. Think about sitting on top of the Prow and hearing turkey in the silver canyon, a kingfisher in the gold and watching a black bear ramble down canyon toward Sycamore. Sigh...
I imagine some are still fortunate enough to experience the unique solitude of the place. Viva weekday climbing.
Oh, and I thought this was much harder than Mutiny. Of course, oddly enough, I seconded the first on Mutiny before I led it so I knew it was just a running lie back to a good rest. Hmmm.....
This is definitely stout. I've only been able to lead it once, after multiple attempts with multiple falls and that was only with a fair amout of peer pressure from Dr. Dave and the Pinche and claims that the conditions were ideal for my style i.e. there was mud in the crack and water trickling down, but low and behold I fired clean.... now if only I could do that when its dry and sunny!
Paul, thanks for the post. I know the Forks does not offer the solitude it once did, but many of us new climbers have great respect for the area and the climbers who established the routes.
Paul, I guess its all what our strengths are . For me I find Davidsons Dihedral pretty easy having lead it twice in a 20 minute period, but I would be wasted if I tried to lead Mutiny twice in 20 minutes
Pillow Wall
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