Climb up right facing dihedral to a slender, detached looking pillar just past midheight. Get on top of that and let the fun begin with long, bouldery moves on positive edges. Just when you think its over the bulge at the top will test you one more time.
Location
Middle of the Davidson wall, next system right of the Equalizer.
Protection
I led it after a couple TR burns. The pro was pretty good, you will probably want to take a look-see. Some folks would probably give it an R, I don't know but it is deffinately heads up. Wires, and an assortment of cams.
Lead this yesterday. I would not give this route an R rating. The pro was bomber the entire way. That said, protection for the business section was all small wires and took some thought and time to place. If you are honed at stemming and placement of small wires this pitch is worth an onsight attempt. There is one key nut placement where you have a great handhold but thin stemming for the feet. It was quite exciting. The roof finish is awesome and not as hard as it looks.
Just a heads up as of a week or two ago that detatched pillar is about 2 feet shorter. From what I could see the detatched block that was on top of it is sitting at the bottom of the route with a big X on it. Routes not much harder, now when the rest of that detatched pillar goes...
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