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Queenfolia 

5.10

   

FA: Paul Davidson and Jim Haisley
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10b [details]
Length: 70 feet
Views: 532 page views

Submitted By: Will Cobb on Jun 8, 2006


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Mark Hawthorne leading through the overhanging fin...


Description 

Located about 25 feet left of Brown Derby this route begins on face climbing up then right to the base of a nice corner hand crack. Climb this hand crack to the top of a pillar. From this point straight up is Kingfolia (5.10+). Climb up and right out a flake on great holds then exit on a thin hands crack.


Protection 

1 x set TCUs
1 x .5, .75, #1 Camalots
2 x #2, #3 Camalots
Half set stoppers
Long slings can help reduce rope drag



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MArk Hawthorne placing gear at the start of the crux

MArk Hawthorne placing gear at the start of the cr...

At the crux of Queenfolia.  Photo by Geir H.

BETA PHOTO: At the crux of Queenfolia. Photo by Geir H.


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By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 9, 2006

Good point Greg. A #3 Camalot fits perfectly into the flake about halfway across. Additionally, it is fairly steep climbing across the flake, so place good gear and climb quickly when possible.

By Greg DeMatteo
From: Flagstaff, Az
May 28, 2007
rating: 5.10

The stress factor is only there cause of that pillar. Still, the climbing eases way up once you get vertical again.

By Paul Davidson
May 16, 2008

One of my favorite climbs at the Forks.

It looked so intimidating on the first ascent but turned out to be a jug haul on steep ground.

Can be pumpy if you place the pro to keep yourself off the ledge.
As we used to say, "Never pass up the chance to pump a chump."

We were definitely of the chump school of thought.