11:11 

FA:  Joshua Janes. New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.12a [details] Length:  1 pitch, 115 feet Views: 360 page views Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 28, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Josh Janes moving into it on the FA.

Description 

11:11 (obviously the name has nothing to do with the rating) climbs the overhanging S-shaped crack just right of Double Clutching and left of Chronic.

Head up to a low roof, and pull gingerly past this (some hollow-sounding flakes) to the right, and then follow a cool seam and corner up to a stance. This is just left of the business (the bottom of the S-crack). Place a blind cam if possible and then crank on some good locks to get up into the crack which gradually widens to perfect hands. Mantle onto the top of the column to a lower-off.

This is a great, entirely gear-protected route. The anchor currently consists of two fixed wires and a bolt, all equipped for lowering. I hope to put in a second anchor bolt ASAP (I only had a hand drill at the time of the FA and that basalt is ruthlessly implacable).

Protection 

Pro to 3", extra tips and small fingers pieces. Wires. A 60m rope *might* make it down but use a 70 to be sure.

Photos of 11:11 Slideshow

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Josh J. pulling into it! Sports action!	Josh Janes on the FA, caught in hard light and har...	Dan Foster going for it on his first run.