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Counter Curse 

5.11d

   

FA: JJ Schlick
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 200 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 14, 2009


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Myself on an early run...


Description 

Counter Curse offers some really good climbing on bulletproof black rock that is bookended by two hard-to-decipher cruxes. Begin as for Dark Arts, but just before the bolt on that pitch traverse left along a horizontal to a roof/alcove. Clip a bolt here and step up into a V-slot. All I can say is good luck. Maybe try that SuperTopo Harding Slot beta...

Above this follow a vague corner with thin gear to some jugs about 20' below the anchors. A difficult move here leads up to some good edges and the chains. This is a brilliantly perplexing climb.


Protection 

Thin pro (gear to 1/2"), wires, draws.



Photos of Counter Curse Slideshow Add Photo
Moving into the mysterious low flare crux...  This section has shut down many an onsight attempt!

Moving into the mysterious low flare crux... This...


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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.12-

"Brilliantly perplexing" is a good description of this route. I found the low bulge to be the crux. There was another tough move up high as well. I would not argue with anyone who wanted to rate this route a 5.12. It certainly took a 5.12 effort for me to onsight it.