Pyrokinesis 

FA:  JJ Schlick, James Martin Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.12c/d [details] Length:  1 pitch, 100 feet Views: 264 page views Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 14, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Stoking the fires before the FA

Description 

You may need to start the internal fires for this one... Pyrokinesis is a step up from Fade To Black and also a very different style. Begin as for that route, but just before the dihedral gets steep move right to a stance in a slot capped by a small, triangular roof. Clip a fixed wire and a bolt and perform a very thin, cryptic, bouldery crux. Above here are good holds and a long stretch to a second bolt (protectable with a blue TCU). Cop a rest if you can, and then launch into the bouldery high crux. Sustained edges take you to the top.

Protection 

Thin pro (to 1/2"), a fixed wire and then four bolts up high. A green Alien or blue TCU in a horizontal - the first piece - helps prevent wires from zippering up higher. After this is a key #5 BD stopper that is placed blindly to protect the first weird move - currently this wire is fixed. An optional blue TCU protects a runout between the first and second bolts.

Photos of Pyrokinesis Slideshow

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Still trying to get fired up on the first attempt.

Taking the post crux whip... Did that twice and i...