Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>
ACCESS NOTE: Please note that the forest service has restricted climbing for any routes past the area of Red Wagon (just left of the Trinity Cracks) due to tourist safety. Local access groups are working to get this restriction lifted.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Magical Mystery Tour and the Lines (...
Description
When we did this climb, we didn't think much of the fact that you're climbing over a huge flake. Young and dumb and fresh off a climbing trip...
The flake is probably good given how much rock is pressing it into place. But you'll have to make up your mind as to the safety of the route. I won't do it again and probably wouldn't let my kids do it either. It has had a few ascents that I know of and probably a lot more that I don't.
The climbing moves are good and once you're 15 feet up and established into the main corner, the rock is solid.
I believe this climb was the first 5.11 led in the Flagstaff area. Certainly the first 5.11 at the Overlook. The Gleason's had TR'd some 11+/12- stuff at West Elden (Right Elephant Crack, aka Red Asphalt.) Ed Webster had led Twilight Zone and rated it 5.11 but consensus has put that at 5.10.
Toula's original guide called out danger due to wasps.
Named for the end of a great summer climbing trip and in honor of John's moving off to Albuquerque for graduate school.
Location
Right of Devil's Deed and Left of Redrum/Jungleland (aka the Left Line) there is an Africa shaped flake. Start the climb off the ledge where the Lines start. Climb the corner and get established into the upper crack.
I think it's PG - was able to find solid gear every few feet on the difficult terrain. i recall using some small "trick" gear like ballnuts near the crux areas.
The biggest part for me were the wasps hanging out in many of the good holds! It took a lot of clear thinking to avoid disturbing those guys, protect, and find alternate holds!
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