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Swedish Britfast Crack 

5.10 PG13

   

FA: Paul Davidson, Mark Force, Spring 1979
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Season: Stnd Overlook season (year round)
Views: 33 page views

Submitted By: Paul Davidson on Oct 30, 2008


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BETA PHOTO: Looking up from close to the base of the Obediah f...


Description 

Nice and fun obscure climb.
Not your typical Overlook climb.

I don't recall this being all that hard but it's probably for the experienced 5.10 leader because I seem to recall some run out on the arete and possibly some tricky pro (opposition, etc...)

My recollection (hey, it was a long time ago...) is that the face is easier than it looks and the roof up high is a bit exciting.

It's similar in nature to Sin Ropa but easier.

Named in honor of Brit, a Swedish gynecologist traveling through the states. Mark brought her and her partner home to the now burned down climber's house south of the old Alpineer.

I think we might have put up Sexual Deviations on the same day in honor of our young and frustrated losses.

I doubt this has had very many ascents so it would be a good one for a repeat write up.


Location 

Just to the right of the Obediah corner is an arete with holds and thin cracks leading up.

Climb the arete and exit out the corner right of Sexual Deviations.

See the beta photo.
Note, route shown is approximate on the face.


Protection 

Standard Overlook rack.

Don't forget, I climbed a lot with Grossman so my standard rack may be 3x the size of yours.

Like all the Overlook, it's not a long climb but it's varied climbing and I typically had the kitchen sink along for those tricky placements.