Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>
ACCESS NOTE: Please note that the forest service has restricted climbing for any routes past the area of Red Wagon (just left of the Trinity Cracks) due to tourist safety. Local access groups are working to get this restriction lifted.
A short route with a short approach. A bit harder than the 5.6 grade given by nation-wide standards, but maybe accurate locally. The climb goes from a scrambling to stemming with good locks and jams, then back to jugs at the top.
Location
From the down-walk from the rim, come back perhaps 20 meters back toward the rim overlook. The first solid-looking set of cracks is the climb, and is the closest route to the down-climb.
Protection
A single set of stoppers and cams from 1" to 3". Setting an anchor up top will take some ingenuity and judgement.
By Tahoe837 From: Tempe, Az Sep 15, 2009 rating: 5.7
There were a few wasps floating around the crack last weekend, so check it out before you start off of the first ledge.
Also there are 2 stuck cams deep in the main crack, but both look like they've been there for a long time and I'd be careful trusting the slings on them.
On another note, this was my first trad lead and now I'm 100% addicted. woohoo
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