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Pumphouse Wash
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Ultimate Finger Crack 

5.11+ PG13

   

FA: Tim Coats & John Mattson, 1985
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11b/c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 165 feet, Grade II
Views: 692 page views

Submitted By: markguycan on Apr 16, 2006


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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View of the UFC from it's base.


Description 

splitter finger tips to small hands up a steep smooth wall.


Location 

in a side slot on the West side of the canyon upstream from Mexican Pocket & down from rope swing-swimming hole.


Protection 

3-4 each of tcus, double #.75-#1, single #2 & #3camalot.



Add Photo Photos of Ultimate Finger Crack
A classic Dugald Bremner shot of Tim Coats repeating his mid-80's testpiece Ultimate Finger Crack.

A classic Dugald Bremner shot of Tim Coats repeati...


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By Seth Dyer
Dec 15, 2006
rating: 5.11

This classic has great pro all the way.... I'd hesitate to give it a PG13 rating. Don't be shy, git out there and git on it!!!

By Michael Sokoloff
Jun 24, 2007

I agree that the pro is great the whole way. Triples of yellow TCUs through 0.75 Camelot then double #2 Camelot and one #3 Camelot along with singles of small TCUs should sew it up fine. This is one of the finest cracks of its grade anywhere.

By Larry Coats
Oct 27, 2007

FA: Tim Coats & John Mattson, 1985.

By Paul Davidson
Aug 14, 2008

I will never forgive Tim for stealing this route.
I found it 1982, just before moving to Tucson.

I'm kidding (sort of.)

This is a beautiful area and one amazing crack.