This is one of my favorite pitches of climbing anywhere. Easily toproped after climbing the Sword. A short bit of steep hands leads to finger crack which takes you under the roof. Plug in a black alien in a seam to the right, then bust out some wild moves out left, and undercling back right again to turn the roof. One more crux section guards the chains.
Location
Starts just left of the Sword, under the big roof 70 ft up.
Protection
Nuts, doubles to #2 Camalot with triples black-yellow Alien.
A very classic pitch- just another must do if you're up there. Bring one #1, one #2, and one #.75 for the lower section. The crux may be getting up under the roof. This protects well with a couple #00 metolious. After the roof, there are nut placements, but a couple yellow metolious are nice to have. Two or three blue metolious/camalot are also a good thing to have.