BETA PHOTO: One reason to be alert on the approach hike to the...
Description
This is a year-round crag located uphill and east of the Encinoso Picnic Area in Oak Creek just north of Sedona. The walls are south and west facing in a bowl shape. It's basalt, predominantly fingers to hands-sized cracks with lots of great 10s and 11s. All routes have bolted anchors, bring a 60m rope and double rack of cams, nuts, etc.
Getting There
Drive north from Sedona along Oak Creek (hwy 89) til you pass Encinoso Picnic Area and look for small (3-4 car) pullout on right. The Waterfall basalt is east of and uphill from there. A drainage is gained across Oak Creek, boulder hop across this. Walk up the drainage for 30-40 mins. and the area is split in half. Left is the south-facing wall, right is the west-facing wall.
Just to the right of Black and Tan. Work your way up to the splitter by either climbing the start of Black and Tan, or sack up for the more direct start which is a bit headier. Whichever way you start get to the splitter finger crack which winds it's way up the left side of the column past good jams, and a few thank god jugs. Hand/fist crack takes you to the top of the pillar, and a rest before the final bouldery section to meet up at the Black...[more]
A couple things to add to the description... Some of the routes on the left wall are longer than 100 feet. Spite and Malice for sure. Be careful when lowering. The Pinche Tribe dedicated a lot of time and money in late 90s, early 2000 to replace old and create new anchors. Many of these we left fixed biners on. Sort of wish I had a few of those back now. So if you get to the top of these routes, please leave the biners up there for future use. I know some of them disapeared, most likely by people who just didn't know the program.
Also, watch out for rock fall. If it has been raining or snowing a lot the top band of choss is primed for a let loose. We were all up there one Christmas day when a huge section gave way. More or less terrifying. I watched whole trees drop, not to mention tons of stone.
All in all it is an amazing, unpopulated crag which is stacked with 10s, 11s, and a handful of spicey 12 trad routes.
The approach takes about a half hour, unless you have it wired.
For many of the harder lines on the right side we had a set of Lowe Balls on the FAs. Having a set or the equivelant may make them seem a lot more protectable. I am going to get on Fosters case and see if he can fill in a lot of blanks on that side. He has a better memory than I do...
Oak Creek Waterfall
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