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King on a Throne. Todd Gordon on pitch one. Photo...
Description
This is a fantastic climb on a large formation with an awesome summit. Pitch one; Climb up a large dihadral/corner system, past two bolts, past 5.9 Owth section to a belay from 2 FP on the left. There are a few loose blocks on this pitch as well, so be careful. Pitch 2; climb up the dihedral more (past 2 bolts) into a chimney (squeeze) and a belay ledge just past the notch on the left. (Triple bolt belay/rap station). Pitch three; Climb up past one bolt, to a thin aid crack which widens to hands, then leads to a belay with 3 bolts. The 4th pitch ascends a bolt ladder with 17 bolts in a row. The bolts traverse up and right around the backside of the formation.
Location
This formation is East of the main Tribal Loop and is approached from the main highway via dirt roads that lead towards the formation.
Protection
Double or triple rack of cams, a few pins, slings. Extension for the top anchor. I got my ropes stuck on the last pitch;...make sure the rope is extended and the rope will freely pull.
The Throne is the skinny spire on the far left. Th...
The Throne. Photo: Todd Gordon
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By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California May 20, 2007
I attempted this climb with Dorothy Logan in Feb., 1983. We did 2 pitches and she didn't want to continue. I returned a few weeks later with my younger brother (Who climbs a few times a year with me..), and we made it to the summit on a cold day with some snowflakes in the air. We got the ropes stuck on the summit rappel, and ended up chopping our rope, and making many very short raps to the ground, leaving hundreds of $ of gear. The rappels were made after the sun went down as well. (Epic?) I returned a third time in March 1983 with Brian Povolny and Jeff Hamblen, and we went again to the summit, and I retrieved what was left of my rope, and all the gear I had left behind. I am familiar with this climb, and it holds a special place in my heart and soul. It is a cool climb with a fantastic summit.
Monument Valley
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