It is illegal at the present time to climb in Canyon de Chelly or elsewhere on the Navajo Indian Reservation
Spider Rock. Photo by Blitzo.
Description
Eric's Desert Rock says that Spider Rock is 9 pitches , but it's been done in 6 pitches. Pitch 1; Thin groove (5.9) to a 5.8 squeeze leads to a traverse right (one bolt) and a 3 bolt anchor. Pitch 2; 5.10 hands and O W (on the right) lead to a 5.10 chimney and a squeeze. Pitch 3; a fixed pin and a fixed chock lead to another chimney (5.9) and the 3 bolts traversing left into a steep finger/hand section to a belay in a cave. Pitch 4; 5.9/5.10 O W and chimney lead to a belay from natural gear up high...past some rap anchors. This chimney/O W pitch has about 8 bolts on it. Pitch 4 ; climb rotten rock to a hole which you crawl through. After the hole section, traverse right to a crack and free climb up more rotten rock (5.10) past a steep section (1 bolt), into a 5.9/5.10 squeeze slot. Belay in a hole from a fixed pin and natural gear. Pitch 5; go left up a 5.10+ O W (crux), past about 6 bolts. Near the top, there is sort of wild traverse to the left, then to the summit;...make sure to protect traverse for the second. The rappells don't always go to the same belays as the ascent. Some are double rope raps;...some are single. Careful not to get ropes stuck. Some of the rap anchors are sort of scary and old looking.
Location
About 13 miles into Canyon de Chelly. Approach via rappels from Overlook (dicey anchors and sticker bushes), or hike in on the Bat Trail (past the overlook).
Protection
Three sets of Cams, a few chocks (medium), lots of slings and biners, and a few large cams.
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California May 8, 2007
I climbed this route in Feb. , 1984 with Brian Povolny. This was a big deal for us;....We both lived on the Res., we both climbed alot together, and we both loved climbing. I had been to the Spider Rock overlook so may times just looking and dreaming; we were willing to risk getting busted for this; and when I mean busted, I mean by white Rangers, NOT by Navajos. We rapped in instead of hiking in; this was a mistake, for the rap anchors weren't all that inspiring, and the overhanging jumar out of the canyon with heavy packs was almost too much for me. The climbing went well;...we fixed one pitch in the dark one evening, slept at the base, and then went to the summit and back the next day. We free climbed all but a few moves. We got the rope stuck on the 2nd to last rappel, and after alot of tugging it came free, and Brian hit his chin on the rock and drew blood. We made a decision to do something illigal, and that was OUR personal choice; most people break the law sometime in their lives, and our ascent was done is secret and we meant no respect to the Navajo people. Both of us have had lots of opportunities in our years with the Navajo to do plenty of respectful, helpful, kind, and awesome things with the Navajo; sneeking on an illigal climb without hurting anyone or anyone's knowledge was our choice and we will live by our decision to do this. This was one of the highlights of a very long and fun climbing career for me;...nothing quite like it. The climbin aint' all THAT special; alot of chimneys and O Wths...but the whole experiece for us meant alot to us;....especially when this was our home for a big chunk of our lives. Spider Rock is sacred to the Navajos and it is sacred to me as well. I celebrate it's sacredness in a way that has meaning and depth for me in my life; it's different for everyone. IF you want to point a finger at us and say bad men for doing something illigal and "disrespectful"....go ahead;.....You have no idea what I experienced living 3 years of my life with the Navajo and the Sioux Indians;....I sleep in the bed I make for myself;... you sleep in yours. I don't recommend anyone go climb Spider Rock; it IS illigal and , if you get caught, it could be ugly. Follow your own dreams, build your castles in the sky, and slay your own dragons.....live large and celebrate life as you see fit for yourself...I do.
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California May 28, 2007
On this climb, we found a piton stamped C P..( Chuck Pratt), who did the 2nd, 4th, and 5th ascent of Spider Rock. I had it with my collection of odd junk I've found on climbs, but I donated it to Access and it got raffled off at a fund raiser. (I'm sure it has a good home..) It was one of my prize goodies of old collectable junk.
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California Jun 9, 2007
Why are you posting route information if it is illegal to climb there? Maybe your experience should be kept to yourselves so that you wouldn't need to explain your actions to the world. With one hand your spraying, with the other your confessing guilt. Seems kinda strange.
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California Jul 10, 2008
Colin; You are correct;....it DOES seem kinda strange. Do what you wish with this information;......You found this information strange;.... Maybe some people find my "spraying and confessing guilt" interesting, curious, facinating, or , in the case of guys like Jim Bridwell......possibly useful;...
I like stories of climbing. John Long has been a master story teller and book writer for a Years. Even had a story turned into a movie, Cliffhanger. Does anyone say "HISTORY" as well? Gosh, where would climbing be without all that story telling.
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