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Bold is Love 

5.10d

   

FA: ccox and H. Padilla
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 95 feet
Views: 293 page views

Submitted By: Colin Cox on Jun 12, 2008


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BETA PHOTO: The top of Bold is Love. The Prow can be seen in t...


Description 

Start ten feet right of the initially dirty, mossy crack system on a flake jug on the face. Climb good, slabby features left and up to the crack system previously mentioned. Climb a few moves up the low angle wide crack(beware of your rope falling into a slot just above), then angle slightly left up the slabby dihedral with a seam that offers some protection just before a ledge is encountered on your left. Use the ledge, or not, and continue up the crack line that leads to the steep, striking prow/arete with the handrail that curves along it's edge - the business. To the first bolt the route is about 5.7 with sparse gear. Climb up the steep, juggy handrail past two more bolts to a sinker pocket and well hidden chain anchor at the lip. Top it out for old school satisfaction, then lower. Undoubtedly one of the best, and longest, climbs at West Elden.
*This climb was established entirely on lead.


Location 

Bold is Love is located about 50 feet to the right of The Prow. Eyeball the handrail high above, and the line to it will be fairly obvious. Be sure to avoid the mossy crack in the first twenty feet by starting up the face to the right. The first hold is a big, angling jug.


Protection 

#2 camalot, #.75 camalot, 5 quick draws. 60m rope.



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By Dean Hoffman
Jun 15, 2008

Climbed this last week and its fantastic! Another beautiful, not contrived line. Perhaps we are seeing the dawn of a new Renaissance at West Elden. Strong work Colin and Helen, bolted on lead no less.

By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 5, 2008

This route is awesome. Pretty stout at 5.10+ but it should be at west elden.