John's Jugs 

Who is John Gault?

Tried this one today... Couldn't touch it, even on toprope. Owie! Brutally sharp overhanging tips at the crux.

First ascent John Gault (early 80's)- previously known as "Tenure Crack" and the site of much effort by other locals

Was it JG or Dick Cilly (Cilley?) who snagged the first ?

This route is stout... This thing took me so long to do just because of the pain... I could only get a few tries each day. So short and so painful! Hats off to the guys that did this thing on nuts!
I used, in this order...
.5 Camalot
Yellow Metolius
Purple C3
Yellow Metolius
#3 Camalot

John Gault lived in Flagstaff in the late seventies and early eighties with his two dogs. He had a very high ape index,large biceps,and was prematurely bald.

If the climb is rated as a 5.12 in the early eighties, figure it is a 5.13 today. During this period climbers in Flagstaff and probably throughout Arizona, thought all the hard climbing was in Yosemite and gave climbs lower ratings than they deserved.

I think Gault is a climbing guide in Colorado now.

I absolutely cannot picture John Gault as a climbing guide. Are you sure about that ?

Yeah, John as a guide, highly unlikely.
His was (is) a reclusive personality.

Last I knew, John was in Tucson but that was 10-15 years ago.
After he'd been in Albuquerque working with Bob and me.

John was a good partner (he and I bouldered a lot back and climbed a little in the mid 80s) and a good guy...but not what you'd call a "people person". PD...can you picture him drumming up business ? I'm laughing.

I climbed with John a few times when I lived in Flagstaff. I think I saw John Gault was a guide in a Google search or in Mountain Gazette.

I'm editing my comment. I just did a google search and found a few John Gault references, but none about a guide in Colorado. It was in Mountain Gazette or I am mistaken.

I noticed a comment from JBaker in Tucson. Mr. Baker might remember my son Nathaniel when he was a student at U of A about five years ago. He climbed at Lemmon and attended a few of your slide shows, if I have the right John Baker/Summit Hut

Ken, I think you are on a mistaken identity rampage, it's DAVE Baker that owns the Summit Hut (and bagged all the good lines 40 years ago).

Guilty! I just don't seem to be getting it right.

Yeah, JG drumming up business... gnaw. (or BM for that matter.)
Decent programmers, probably better boulderers.

Seems like I'd heard that John's folks had passed on and left the house to John. He was living there over on 6th.

John and I were in math grad skool together in early 80s.

If this is one of the best routes, I'm glad I haven't done any others. A miserable 6 ft of sharp jams. What fun. A wise old fat guy (with sausage fingers) once said there is too much good rock and life is too short to climb routes like this.