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DescriptionRed Dragon is a small chunk of dacite visible from downtown Flagstaff, just east of, and at almost the same elevation as, the Devil's Chair. Viewed from the west at sunset, the features on it's west/northwest face resemble a redish orange dragon with it's wings held up. A horned Devil's Head can also be seen between it's raised wings(perhaps the origin of the Devil's Head name given to the lower western peak of Mt Elden). Red Dragon currently hosts nine sport climbs, all about 50 to 60 feet tall. The cliff is shady until 1pm, and can be very windy, especially on the more exposed, upper section of the wall. Summer mornings are good, but when it is cold, afternoon is better. It's a more adventurous sport cliff with a steep approach and some good exposure on the upper routes. Getting TherePark at the end of Paradise Road, same as Gloria's Rocks parking. From Gloria's rocks, follow trail east along the base of the mountain. Eventually there are many trails, but follow the ones that appear to lead most directly at the cliff seen above. At the halfway point, at the rim of the last and largest gulley thus encountered, a vague trail diverges from a well traveled trail, down and right, and eventually leads to a couple boulders on the east side of the drainage. If you can find these boulders, you will find the trail to the cliff. If not, prepare for some serious, steep bushwacking. Follow vague path around the south side of the boulders and locate the steep switchbacking path that leads to the cliff. You will first arrive at some small rocks at the lower end of the cliff band. Follow the vague path along the base until you reach the bigger chunks higher up. You will eventually reach a flat landing/staging area under some big pine trees. Two 5.10s(warm-ups)are located here. 45 minutes. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Red Dragon:
Addiction Friction 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Friend of the Devil 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Bobcat Martini 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Crown Jewel 5.12d Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet
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