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Elysian Buttress
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Elysian Buttress Original Route 
Mechanical Persistence 
Unemployment Line, The 

The Unemployment Line 

5.11+

   

FA: Stan Mish & Tomas Robison
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11+ [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II
Views: 152 page views

Submitted By: Will Cobb on Apr 20, 2006


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Description 

The Unemployment Line is another great sport line up the right hand section of the Elysian Buttress. A little more traffic on this line will clean up the route a little possibly making it worth three stars.

Pitch 1 (5.11a) - Climb a short ramp with optional trad gear (Yellow TCU and/or #2 Camalot) to a line of 10 bolts. Thin, sharp edges combine with fun foot work makes this pitch engaging and in your face from start to anchors. Finish on a small ledge at a two bolt rap anchor. (~100')

Pitch 2 (5.11+) - Awesome pitch smears, underclings, and crimps past 8 bolts to another two bolt rap anchor. (~80')

Pitch 3 (5.11) - Climb up over a bulge to a nice stance, then cut up and right past several additional bolts to the two bolt summit anchor. (~70')

Descent - Three single rope rappels from bolted anchors to the ground.


Location 

During the approach aim for a large face on the righthand buttress. The Unemployment Line is 30' to the right of a shallow alcove. This alcove has a left leaning crack running out of the top.


Protection 

12 Draws
Yellow TCU (Metolius) Optional
1 x #2 Camalot Optional
Expect to clip your first bolt at about 25' off the deck without the trad gear.