Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>
This area is closed from March 15 - June 30 for nesting peregrine falcons.
Description
Head for the bottom right corner of Wheeler Wall to get to the base of this climb. The route climbs near the buttress that forms the right edge of the wall.
This is a nice long route with mixed types of climbing. The first two thirds follow the crack that diagonals up alongside the buttress. After this head up the face past two bolts to easier climbing above. The route protects pretty well and is easier than many other 5.7s on Lemmon.
This pitch is more than 1/2 a rope length, even with a 60m rope, so follow the easy and obvious walkoff to get down.
Protection
Four bolts on the route, plus a nice crack section that takes small/medium nuts and cams. Bolts at the summit.
Fun route.. I ran it out pretty severly and didn't use any gear but it looked as though anything from tiny TCU's to a #2cam would go. there are 4 bolts plus one bolt with no hanger? I sinched a nut to it and clipped that.
By Jerry Cagle From: Tucson, AZ May 11, 2006 rating: 5.7+ PG13
This route takes almost an entire 60m rope to reach the anchors. It's difficult to protect the upper section after you leave the crack section and reach a sloping ledge it's a pretty commiting move out onto the face. If you fall you will hit something... something hard. There is an old bolt sticking out of the rock that might protect this move, but the hanger is missing...
By Jerry Cagle From: Tucson, AZ May 24, 2006 rating: 5.7+ PG13
Repeated this route recently, and we pitched it out into 3... Belayed at the base of the crack, then again on the ledge just before the upper face.
By Christian From: Tucson, Az Sep 10, 2007 rating: 5.8
Like Wes said, use a nut and cinch it down on the bolt stud to protect the crux move left onto the face near the top.. Probably more like a solid 5.8 move.
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