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Nancy Boy's Nightmare 

5.11-

   

FA: Dean Brault, Jim Scott
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 130 feet
Views: 167 page views

Submitted By: dcohn on Feb 7, 2009


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Erica Bigio cranks the roof.


Description 

Start following a faint crack system. There is limited but sufficient pro. Turn the roof crux, which is bolt protected. Follow a few more bolts to a slanting chimney like feature. Get out of that and clip one more bolt before the anchors. The route is about half protected by bolts and is mostly easier than 11-. It is long and nice to do if in the area.


Location 

This route starts about 50 feet to the left of Under the Weather, the huge corner. There are several huge boulders. Start on the rightmost one under a faint crack system. You will see one bolt right over the roof. Go for that. There is a bolted route to the right.


Protection 

Light rack no larger than #2 camalot and a few draws. There are 4 bolts and a two bolt anchor. Belay the second from above and walk off or rap down with 2 ropes and collect the draws later.