Turret Rock and Environs

Unknown Route right of Butterfly Flats. This route...

Description 

Like most of the stuff around Windy Point, Turret Rocks is a group of towers with climbing on all aspects (read: shade chasing). Moderate trad climbing, and 5.10 to 5.12 sport climbing prevails. For moderate trad, I suggest Jambrosia 5.8** on the tower by the same name, and Rabbit Tracks 5.6***. The latter is especially great for the new leader. I have only done one sport climb there, but they all look great.

Getting There 

Park at the Windy Point parking area and drop down below the Practice Wall. You can descend directly under the Practice Wall straight toward Turret Rock (which has an obvious "turret" on it) via a short 3rd class section; OR you can go farther west toward the overhanging boulders and drop down there without any 3rd class. When you get to the first big rocks (Bare Ass Rocks), there is a trail down between them toward Turret Rock. The easiest way down this gully is to go into the tight tunnel formed by the fallen slab. This tunnel is pretty tight: if you can do it easily with packs on, you are not in the right tunnel. On the way back, it is easier to go above the slab that forms the tunnel. After this, Turret Rock is directly in front of you. Note the block on top with two points of contact sporting chains! Jambrosia is directly to your right as you face Turret Rock.