By Joseph Stover From: Chistchurch, New Zealand Dec 18, 2007 rating: 5.11a
This would be a really hard one if the climbing was sustained 11 up to duh bulge, but then it would be like 11c/d. As it stands I think 11a is fair for a short powerful sequence. FUN! I thought the pro above was pretty crappy, but I am not too experienced. One or two pieces should be enough to calm the mind.
Fun moves at the crux! Pro to 1" for the good crack above the bulge. FYI: it's 25' between the crux bolt and the next one, granted it's only 5.8ish after the crux.
this climb could be 11b if the rest of the climbing were harder, but aside from the bulge itself there's nothing on this thing harder than 5.8 or 5.9. it's basically a 5.9 mixed route with a V2 boulder problem cutting it in half.
the crux is very well bolted, but you'll want some small stuff for a placement or two in the crack above the bulge.
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