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Coup de' tat 

5.13a/b

   

FA: Vince Bates, EFR,'09
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.13a/b [details]
Length: 100 feet
Views: 612 page views

Submitted By: Eric Rhicard on Jul 21, 2009


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Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Vince working out the low crux in '08


Description 

Bolted in 2001 and worked on by a number of people Vince finally worked out the cruxes. This route goes on and on. Despite the knee bars that allow numerous rests you are working the whole time. Two cruxes, one low and the very sequential and harder high crux lead to forty feet of less overhanging 5.11 to finish the route.


Location 

This route starts the same as Orifice Politics but busts out right following a thin seam at the small roof just right of a big vertical rail.


Protection 

Bolts



Photos of Coup de' tat Slideshow Add Photo
Jesse Schultz just below the roof where Coup climbs up under the roof then heads right.Orifice Politics continues up rail then works left a little.

Jesse Schultz just below the roof where Coup climb...

EFR at the first crux before the Miko (SP?)Bar was found.  Makes this section a tad easier.

EFR at the first crux before the Miko (SP?)Bar was...

EFR taking another run.

EFR taking another run.

EFR getting the back-handed cross through move.

EFR getting the back-handed cross through move.

EFR using his patented C4 Stealth turban to milk the head/shoulder jam.

EFR using his patented C4 Stealth turban to milk t...

Eyeing the next undercling on the crux of Coup d'e tat.

Eyeing the next undercling on the crux of Coup d'e...

Pete on the start of Coup de' tat

Pete on the start of Coup de' tat

Pete on the lower crux of Coup de' tat

Pete on the lower crux of Coup de' tat

Awesome times at the Orifice Wall! go Pete!

Awesome times at the Orifice Wall! go Pete!

Summer weather at the summit... Ravens and Rap Rock from Orifice Wall

Summer weather at the summit... Ravens and Rap Roc...

Pete on Coup de' tat

Pete on Coup de' tat

Pete head jammed on Coup de' tat

Pete head jammed on Coup de' tat

Pete on Coup de' tat

Pete on Coup de' tat

Pete on Coup de' tat

Pete on Coup de' tat

EFR on the other end of the rope

EFR on the other end of the rope


Comments on Coup de' tat Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 24, 2009
By Geir Hundal
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 22, 2009

Redpoint!!!!! Awesome work Vince!!!!

By Eric Rhicard
Jul 27, 2009

You gotta love the various names given some moves. Mary Poppins, half Poppin. Miko Bar, replaces Euro Foot .aggotry, Head and Shoulders, Dorito, Fred Nicole. Now if I could only put them all together.

By Luis Cisneros
From: Tucson
Aug 3, 2009

way to go Vince and Eric!!!! great sends!!!

By Eric Rhicard
Aug 3, 2009

Gracious Amigo!

By Aleix Serrat-Capdevila
Aug 4, 2009

Inspiring sends, amazing indeed, and I got to watch them both. :-)
Congrats!!

Since I am not american, I had to look up "tat" and this is what wikipedia says: "Thematic Apperception Test or TAT has been amongst the most widely used, researched, and taught projective psychological tests. Its adherents claim that it taps a subject's unconscious to reveal repressed aspects of personality, motives and needs for achievement, power and intimacy, and problem-solving abilities."

How do you guys choose your route's names ?!

By Geir Hundal
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 6, 2009

Great send Eric!!!! Wish I was there to see it!

By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Aug 7, 2009

Nice Eric!!!

PS Aleix "tat" means like old slings left behind to rap, etc

By Geir Hundal
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 7, 2009

exactly. the literal translation of this climb's name is "chicken house filled with old slings and webbing." :)

By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Aug 7, 2009

Das ist korrekt Mr Hundal

By Eric Rhicard
Aug 7, 2009

Chicken wing is what I got with my left arm while in the head and shoulders rest. Tat is what we removed when we started working on this route last year. Chicken shit is how we feel the first day back at the Orifice wall. Couped up is how we feel when mother nature calls in a big way and we need to get off the ledge in a hurry. Wow what a great name Vince. I think you have a knack for this.

By karatepete
From: tucson, AZ
Sep 24, 2009

do not jump from the anchors of this route! Listen to EFR, just, "step off."