Vince Bates figures out the crux for the first tim...
Description
This is a line I have looked at since 1996. The first forty feet had been started by Mark Hathaway so I stayed off of it. In 2001 I bolted a hard variation finish in an effort not to ruffle Marks feathers but still allow me to climb this face. Mark worked it some in 2001 but as far as I know that was it. This year Vince called and asked if he could work the route which was pretty nice since almost no work that I know of has been done on it in years. Mark said yes and so Vince and I started working the route with my alternate finish. Vince figured out the first crux (the Mary Poppins move) which I had never done til this year. Thanks to a little cleaning to consolidate the kitty litter it is pretty reasonable now. Vince has done the route with my original finish which has a harder crux higher up with one hang. Today we bolted the line that I had always envisioned which goes straight up a big flake then turns the bulge and up a less steep but still overhanging headwall. So after twelve years of looking at it and few dozen tries at the crux I finally got to climb it on my second run. It is a great line with a wild crux slightly less than half way up. The rest of the climb is an enduro fest that took knee bars and arm bars to make it go. Will have to wait for others opinions but for twelve years I have said it is one of the most striking lines in Tucson and that is why I am so thrilled to finally climb it. Hey the guidelines say deepest thoughts. Not that deep maybe but they are my thoughts.
P.S. The swing off of this route is even better than Hard Day. Climb up to the second bolt step left make sure you have as much stretch out of the rope as possible the cut loose.
Location
Starts on the ramp about 6 feet before you reach the ledge where you start Hard Day... 70M rope will ensure no one hits the ground on the 102 foot lower.
Protection
Bolts,chaws(chain draws) Bring some draws as a few bolts don't have chaws. One working bolt at the crux that is only used to work out the move then skipped.
nice work eric!! i should let everyone know what a great battle it was, both physically and mentally, for this to go down. and judging by the huge grin plastered on your face, eric, it was well worth it!! it was great to have been there to cheer you on to victory!!
Glad you guys were there. Now that a couple of days have passed and I have had time to think about it, climbing that route may have been the single best effort I have ever given while sport climbing. I have done some harder routes but those were so wired that they didn't seem too bad when I climbed them. Pretty cool stuff. Can't wait for Saturday!
Wow! Good job getting that FA Eric! I didn't realize that route was a project up until like two weeks ago. Jesse, Same to you, great work with the SA third go! It was nice to meet both of you up there this Saturday. Luke
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