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The Grips of Wrath 

5.10a

   

FA: Ben Burnham, Gary Reynolds
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 265 page views

Submitted By: Vincent Greene on Jul 4, 2004


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"Scott Hamilton" at the first crux.


Description 

Easy to find - look for the cold shuts. Follow the shuts mostly straight up to the chains, with occasional detours (mostly to the right) to find the best holds. If you have read the description in the guidebook, you can tell this route has seen a lot of controversy. It intersects another less direct route (Of Mice and Men), which led to it being chopped shortly after it was put up. In the guidebook, it is listed as "Gripes of Wrath", but that is NOT its name. Climb them both and make up your own mind.


Protection 

Bolts (spikes) with cold shuts as hangers.



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By Wes Turner
Jul 6, 2004

both still worth doing but...of mice and men is no longer the same( you can clip a bolt on "gripes" or whatever, I never got to climb it before Gripes either) so climbing them and considering them individually is sortof impossible now casue they cross!....I can see how the FA of Mice and men would be in a chopping mood... I understand the controversy... Gripes has a couple of fun blancy moves on it though....which I did enjoy...and of mice and men would have been tougher without having the option of cliping a bolt if you felt like it.

By Forest Hill
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 2, 2004
rating: 5.10c

Ben may have been firmly in the wrong to have bolted over another route in putting this route up (crossing it multiple times!)

But since it's there, this is truly a very very fun route. Did it twice yesterday, tending to get sidetracked more onto Mice & Men while leading, and then top-roped firmly on Grips. Both lines are great great fun.