Look for a bolted route just to the right of a large obvious roof. Pitch 1: The first bolt is pretty far up on easy climbing. Follow the bolts moving left or right (mostly) for the best holds. The crux is between the last bolt and the chains, and is well protected by the bolt. Someone else will need to fill in details on pitch 2.
I really thought this route was fun albeit short. curx is the last move up onto slabby face before anchors..
By Scott Tucker From: Tucson, AZ Jun 23, 2006 rating: 5.9
Fun climbing, if short. I believe the second pitch is actually pitch 2 of the 5.11 gear climb that stars left of Jack. It was hard to tell this from the guidebook at first. My impression from the description is that the second pitch is still 5.11, but it is bolted. Getting both to the roof and then over it certainly looks harder than 5.9, although the climbing above looks easier.
Hey Scott, it is confusing. In SQ II #4 The Pagan climbs past the anchors of #5 Jack The Slipper and turns the roof at a hard to reach bolt (if you are under 5'6"). After turning the roof angle left away from bolt line to set up a belay. The Jack the Roofer Variation moves left below ...Slipper's anchors and turns the roof and clips it's own set of anchors. From here you can lower off or if you have gear continue to the top via Pneumatic Bliss or the upper pitch of The Pagan. Hope this helps those who are not in radio contact with me.
The first bolt on the second pitch is really loose and sticks out of the wall a fair bit. If you blow the roof move this is the bolt you'll be falling on. Scared me away from the second pitch...
The Druid
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