I am putting 5.8 becasue that is the consensus...HOWEVER, I swear that crux is solid 5.9 for sure! Thats just me though....and the move is HARDER than anymove on jack the slipper which is a 5.9...so if 5.8 is your upper limit this is gonna be a tough one. The good thing is that there is a bolt right at the crux saving your butt from going anywhere.. so you got that goin for ya...I'm about 5'9"-5"10" so every inch that your are taller than this could very possibly make it easier. good climb
By Scott Tucker From: Tucson, AZ May 9, 2006 rating: 5.8+
I have to agree with Wes. If In Lightning is a 5.8 (which I think it is) then this is a definite 5.9. I'll put 5.8+ in case I'm just a wuss. I did find it easier than the left side of the roof (Corporal Punishment). Both are fun!
By Jerry Cagle From: Tucson, AZ Jun 11, 2006 rating: 5.9-
The roof on this one (and CP next door) is interesting. Not as interesting as "Lights Out", but interesting nonetheless. If you look in STL II you'll notice that this route actually has three pitches, not one as indicated in the description. P2 and P3 are not particularly difficult, but P3 is probably R. P2 is mixed and P3 is trad. The only drilled stations are on P1 so this is an op to practice building gear anchors.
By Joseph Stover From: Chistchurch, New Zealand Aug 27, 2006 rating: 5.9
That roof move is solid 5.9, no doubt to me. Beware 5.8 leaders! The runout is definitely over easy ground with a nice hold to clip from, but beware! It is very similar to a 5.9 is Austin Greenbelt on Seismic wall called "Overeasy", except that Overeasy has some very interesting moves after its roof. Fun route though. mostly easy for a 'Mt Lemmon 5.8' except for the 5.9 roof.
By joshf From: missoula, mt Nov 8, 2007 rating: 5.8
if the run out over the slab is to much, there is a very good looking chicken head you can sling several feet below the roof bolt. This route is a one move wonder over the roof, which seems especially difficult after the 5.5/6 climbing leading up to it.
I was out climbing this today and my friend and I got sketched out by the roof move on lead so I traversed over a little bit only to find a bolt a little ways up to the right of the roof. The bolt is placed almost on horizontal part of the rock. I clipped it and went on up easy terrain to set up a top rope for everyone else. Is that why that bold exist? Also if you do this extend the hell out of the bolts. Rope drag is horrendous.
RSS Feed
