Mark Egan clips into the chains in his first lead ...
Description
Look for a line of bolts around the middle of the back wall of Swim Fin. It starts to the right and uphill of an obvious lieback flake. Follow the bolts. Thin crimpy hands and odd body positions make this a sustained route worthy of its name--do not try it unless you are solid in the grade.
Protection
Plenty of well-placed bolts and chain anchors. I don't remember the count - feel free to post it if you know.
This is not a particularly difficult 5.9 and it is definitely one that a climber could push their limits on. There are good bolts every couple feet at the start. Overall, there are not many 5.9s on the mountain this safe.
By Forest Hill From: Denver, CO Sep 30, 2004 rating: 5.9+
It's definitely safely bolted, so I think anyone who wants to give it a try should. You can always back off.
But I honestly thought this was one of the most sustained 5.9 sport routes I'd ever done when I first moved here and did it. It's great, and it really is a 5.9. but almost every move is 5.9, IMHO.
This route often gets the reputation for being a bit sandbagged at 5.9, but I believe it is more the fact that the route is sustained. There is some potential for a nasty fall if the climbers were to blow it pulling up onto the ledge halfway up or clipping the bolt there after. I really enjoy this climb and think it is one of the better 5.9 sport routes at Windy Point.
By Joseph Stover From: Chistchurch, New Zealand Nov 18, 2007 rating: 5.9+
I agree, it doesn't have any rediculously hard moves, but is really sustained and pumpy for 5.9.
I thought the chains up top looked a bit nasty, probably have years left, but the left connector link is bent and both look slightly thin where attached to the hanger. The lower link showed some wear, but not too bad. The connector links should be replaced with quicklink screw ons.
By joshf From: missoula, mt Mar 2, 2008 rating: 5.9 PG13
There is most assuredly a runout with decker potential in this route.
By Erin Cook From: Tucson AZ Oct 31, 2008 rating: 5.9+
I've only recently started working on 9's in the gym and I did this climb on TR without ever weighing the rope. As far as the moves go I wouldn't rate it higher than a 9+. It was very pumpy but halfway up you have a great ledge that you can hang out on and shake your arms out.
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