Mark Egan clips into the chains in his first lead ...
Description
Look for a line of bolts around the middle of the back wall of Swim Fin. It starts to the right and uphill of an obvious lieback flake. Follow the bolts. Thin crimpy hands and odd body positions make this a sustained route worthy of its name--do not try it unless you are solid in the grade.
Protection
Plenty of well-placed bolts and chain anchors. I don't remember the count - feel free to post it if you know.
This is not a particularly difficult 5.9 and it is definitely one that a climber could push their limits on. There are good bolts every couple feet at the start. Overall, there are not many 5.9s on the mountain this safe.
By Forest Hill From: Tucson, AZ Sep 30, 2004 rating: 5.9+
It's definitely safely bolted, so I think anyone who wants to give it a try should. You can always back off.
But I honestly thought this was one of the most sustained 5.9 sport routes I'd ever done when I first moved here and did it. It's great, and it really is a 5.9. but almost every move is 5.9, IMHO.
This route often gets the reputation for being a bit sandbagged at 5.9, but I believe it is more the fact that the route is sustained. There is some potential for a nasty fall if the climbers were to blow it pulling up onto the ledge halfway up or clipping the bolt there after. I really enjoy this climb and think it is one of the better 5.9 sport routes at Windy Point.
I agree, it doesn't have any rediculously hard moves, but is really sustained and pumpy for 5.9.
I thought the chains up top looked a bit nasty, probably have years left, but the left connector link is bent and both look slightly thin where attached to the hanger. The lower link showed some wear, but not too bad. The connector links should be replaced with quicklink screw ons.
By joshf From: Tucson, AZ Mar 2, 2008 rating: 5.9 PG13
There is most assuredly a runout with decker potential in this route.
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Mar 10, 2008 rating: 5.10a
somebody has to say this so it may as well be me. the problem here is that the more "5.9" ratings this route receives the less anyone wants to call it anything harder because they don't want to sound like a pansy. call me a pansy if you want--hell i'll even admit to being a pansy--but this route has at least one or two 10a moves and if you take the sustained nature of the route (ie the likelihood that you'll pump out before clipping into the anchors) combined with the finger-munching rock this thing could weigh in as hard as 10b.
don't get on this thing unless you're a 5.10 climber--or you're a 5.9 climber who wants to take on every bolt. that being said it's a pretty good route, worth doing if you're in the area.
Swim Fin
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