Before the first bolt there is a perfect placement for the orange alien or a .75 Camalot. This would be for those who don't like the prospect of the fall onto the slab.
Interesting that someone went and added a bolt right next to a perfectly good gear placement on this route very recently. It must have seen several hundred ascents before someone just thought, " why would I carry a cam or nut when I could just slam in bolt right here."
If you don't like them don't clip them. You can make a career out of skipping bolts, it is fun, I do it regularly. It helps me prepare for the days I will have to run it out a ways. I put in lots of bolts I don't need as I could easily solo many of the routes I put up. It certainly would be cheaper. Sometimes I space the bolts out to make the lead more exciting, and sometimes I add a bolt so someone at their limit of ability can dog the crux into submission as I have sometimes done. Sometimes I put bolts next to perfectly good gear placements because I don't want to carry a rack to place one or two pieces. Put up new routes in the style you prefer and let your routes do the talking. Either way have fun out there.
Swim Fin
RSS Feed
