One of the 3 best climbs at the Sun Spots. A bit bagged at 5.11+. Many may feel 12a is appropriate. Is my hair that grey or am I wearing a helmet. Maybe I could climb harder if I colored my hair???
Yes we have. Are those your big fat tick marks I saw on the second crux a couple of days ago? White tick marks can be as dark as a bolt next to a crack. My offer still stands, lead this route on gear and I'll chop it. Pretty fun climbing though....A
By jbak From: Tucson, AZ Mar 22, 2006 rating: 5.12a
I'll probably never make it back to that route since it's off by itself and I already bagged it. If I do go back though, I will lead it on gear, perhaps using one of the bolts.
In any case, I like the route and I'm not advocating a chop. Peering around into the crack to place gear would interrupt the flow and it's a pretty elegant sequence.
My apologies. Did you get the on sight??? It took me tooooo many runs to get this climb. I have no excuse.
By jbak From: Tucson, AZ Apr 7, 2006 rating: 5.12a
Jim, I got to the first crux and thought I saw a smarter way to do it than the obvious fingers-in-the-slot method. As usual, my "smarter" turned out to be dumb. So I fell, then used the obvious slot and it worked ok. Then Cres came close to flashing it but broke a hold during the 2nd crux and went flying. An important hold it seemed to me. On my 2nd try I had to work out a new method for crux #2 on the fly and it worked but barely. So 2 tries.
Cool beans. I climbed it after you and Cres were there. I did the 2nd crux the same way. So whatever hold broke off was not one I was using. Thank the Gods.
You guys try "The Ligher Side of Darkness" yet? It's a fun little pump fest.
Sun Spot Crags
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