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Sun Spot Crags
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Solar E-clips 

5.11b/c

   

FA: Scott, Murdock, Rhicard
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 494 page views

Submitted By: Sparky on Jan 9, 2006


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: here's the topo


Description 

Solar E-clips is located in the middle of the Sunburst Crag and climbs a major weakness. The line starts in a dihedral under a roof. There are some interesting moves into a open groove. The top is exceptional with steep pocket (yes, pocket) pulls. This thing took some clean up, but it is fairly sweet in its current state. 8 or so bolts. Sparky speaks the truth.


Protection 

draws



Add Photo Photos of Solar E-clips
Solar E Clips is the obvious weakness to the right and down from the big white V-slot that dominates the top of The Griddle

BETA PHOTO: Solar E Clips is the obvious weakness to the right...

This is the right side of the crag called The Griddle.   Creighton Chute is workin' Solar E Clips.  Hashbrowns 5.10+, Hardboiled 5.9, & Sunny Side Up 5.10 all start to the left just out of the photo.  English Breakfast Crack 5.9/10 starts on the right side of wall but the crack is around corner out of sight.  The 5.10 headwall can be seen just above notch created by the overhang jutting out to the right.

BETA PHOTO: This is the right side of the crag called The Grid...

Chris Walsh "in the business" on Solar E-Clips.

Chris Walsh "in the business" on Solar E-Clips.


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By Jimbo
Mar 9, 2006

Solar E-Clips is one of the best routes at this area. Interesting and varied climbing right to the anchors. 5.11- is a bit of a sandbag for this route, but it is a route I would climb again and again.

By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Aug 7, 2006
rating: 5.11b

Great climbing, all kinds of different moves to be had, even some chimneying up to the first bolt..Getting up underneath those roofs had kind of a multipitch feel to it..Save some energy for the top..

Also thought was harder than 11a..even as I hangdogged to my heart's content..

By Jimbo
Dec 26, 2006

After many people have climbed this route, two opinions have emerged:
1: It's the best route at the Sun Spots
2: It's 5.11 b/c

By jbak
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 5, 2007

Definitely a sandbag at 11a. I tried it as a warmup thinking that was the grade and got brutally flashpumped. Good route, 2 stars easy.

By susan peplow
From: what day is this?
Feb 5, 2007

Harder than 11a and couldn't be happier that I didn't lead it.

What's the deal with the anchor about 10-12 ft below the actual anchor up top? Different route? Someone extend the last bit?

By the way, that last little bulge getting to the anchor was pretty hard or I was thoroughly gassed, maybe both.

Good route - best one we did on the crag. Closer to 11b/c IMO.

~Susan

By Eric Rhicard
Feb 6, 2007

I agree with you Susan. 5.11- it is not, even though it feels easier some days. The old anchors you found we think were done by someone who aided the thing years ago. Or they may have lead it on gear. Until they come forward we will never know. I don't know why that Jimbo dude doesn't just change the rating with the edit feature. He's a bit stubborn.

By Jimbo
Feb 7, 2007

If one would look 3 comments up, one would see that I have noted that this route is more like .11b/c.
The topo was compiled by someone else, and I can't change it with the edit feature.

By Eric Rhicard
Feb 8, 2007

How about that for an excuse.