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Stonewall (aka Airmen Peak)
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A Comedy of Scarers 
Chicken Crack 
Chimney Route 
Cody Wasn't Here 
Flyboys 
Oh Yeah, That Snake! 
Pagoda Crack 
Pardon Me While I Stem 
Pin There, Done That? 
Squeeze Me 
Stembrosia 
Stoner Crack 

Cody Wasn't Here 

5.7+

   

FA: JMw, Dan Dezess, Chris LaFave (12-07)
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7+ [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 450 feet
Views: 48 page views

Submitted By: Scorptale on Feb 11, 2008


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BETA PHOTO: Original route. An easy access ramp diagonals down...


Description 

1. From an open flat spot at the base, straight down from the left end of the huge ledge above, scramble up left thru a couple trees to the base at a short, right-facing corner with a bulge. Turn bulge then up and right to engage the chimney. Climb chimney to the ledge and belay off tree. 5.7 140’

2. Shift belay about 100’ to the right at the base of the chimney in the large left-facing corner. 3rd class.

3. Original:Climb chimney, exiting left near top, then** stepping back right across top of chimney to belay on large ledge. 5.6 110’ [**Better to continue up black crack at top of chimney in one long pitch to 2 bolt belay. 58m Cody Direct 5.8 (J.Mw., A.S., C.J.)]

4. Step onto face and diagonal left to rounded buttress that is above the third pitch chimney. Easier runout face to 2-bolt belay at top of “Cody Direct.” 5.7+ 140’

Rap 58m (double ropes) from the 2-bolt belay to the huge ledge. 3rd class down then east along easy ramp to ground.


Location 

To the right of the huge roof in the center of the south face is a steep slab gully with a chimney that leads up to a huge vegetated ledge. The ledge extends right for a 100’ to the base of the large left-facing corner mentioned in the "location" section for "Chicken Crack." On the FA most of this area was actually flowing with snow melt. The direct finish was too wet on the FA, but is definitely the best finish. You can actually 3rd class to the base of the 3rd pitch by coming in from the right on a ramp, and climb one long pitch to the top (Cody Direct.). The original route starts about 50’ down and left of a triangular-shaped roof.


Protection 

Include double cams to 3.5"



Add Photo Photos of Cody Wasn't Here
Stemming up the direct finish. [photo by Dave Webster]

Stemming up the direct finish. [photo by Dave Webs...