Oh Yeah, That Snake! 

FA:  JMw, PW New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 170 feet Views: 132 page views Submitted By: Scorptale on Dec 10, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Note pointed roof that rap is on top of.

Description 

Climb crack past tree on small ledge into chimney with hidden layback crack. Up thru crack in bulge. Final section is chimney with short squeeze. Belay on ledge at tree. If you have 50M ropes-- plenty of spots to belay for a second pitch.

Location 

About 100’ around the corner from “ACOS”, on the north face, is a long crack system. Start just left and under a huge block of rock, in the crack. 170’ of jamming, stemming, liebacking, and chimneying on surprisingly good rock.

To descend: Scramble up and left about 30’ past trees to a ledge with 2-bolt rap. (From the base, this ledge looks like a large pointed roof) 60M doubles will just reach ground. 50M’s will probably get you into the climb where you could probably set up a rap off a tree.

Protection 

Include double cams to 3.0. A #4.0 is handy.

Add Photo Photos of Oh Yeah, That Snake!

Kevin McGarvey at the crux bulge.