Climbs are on the South, East, and North faces. Ridiculous in Summer. Nice Fall thru Spring. Mostly good rock, despite the reputation. Seldom visited. Probably will remain that way. Not the typical, well-manicured routes of Mt. Lemmon.
Getting There
Park in main parking lot for Molino Campground (same as for "Sunspots Crags")near MP 5. Walk across Hwy. and start up AZ Trail, continuing up canyon on lesser trail before first drainage crossing. The fading trail eventually climbs to the left of a waterfall, at which point you'll be able to see the broad south face of the Stonewall, behind and left of the Lost Wall. Just after the waterfall the canyon takes a sharp right, then a side drainage heads up left. Follow this lesser drainage toward the Thumb and Stonewall.
The south face of the Stonewall has several distinguishing characteristics. On the far left end is an obvious chimney that splits a wall into two pinnacles, (the “Pin There…” pinnacles.) The left pinnacle is orange-ish. To the right of the pinnacles is an inset wall with a series of small, left-diagonalling roofs and a long, right-curving crack (Pagoda Crack). At the top of the wall is a small formation resembling a pagoda. Further right there are 2 huge roofs in the center of the south face. To the right of the roofs, about halfway up, is a large, left-facing corner with a chimney (P.3 of “Cody Wasn’t Here”.) Best to include a double set of cams to #4 for most of these routes, as well as 60m ropes. Zig-zag up to the base of the climb you choose.
For the north and east face routes, diagonal up to the saddle at the east (right) end of the south face. On the southeast corner is a key feature: a chimney system running the entire height of the wall (~200 feet.) This had 3 rap stations, so it's been climbed by someone out there. The other climbs probably had not been done, but you never know. Let me know if you have any info. 1 to 2.5 hr. approach. Double 60 M ropes are best for the east and north face routes, but not absolutely necessary.
Cool Beans you guys. I went up there pre fire and there was a 30 yard barrier of tall, thick manzanita along the entire base of the crag. I assume most of that is burned away??? Did you guys look at the splitter crack on the front of the jutting buttress a 100 or so yards left of the main face??? Keep up the good work.
The approach is WAY easier in that respect, still pretty vegetated with oak in areas along the base. I'm guessing you're referring to the most obvious crack on the far left end as you first see the south face. We were figuring that had probably been done. Looked a little junky but probably worth doing, as well as a face/crack just to the right. There are actually several other lines of interest, some a bit vegetated, all along that face. There's a really sweet, left diagonalling series of mini-roofs on an inset section of wall about a 100' to the right of the above crack, and a continuous crack to the right of that. Some harder stuff along there too, working out some big roofs! I'll toss a pic on that shows some of that.
It was too bloody hot to even consider that stuff when we were out there and now I'm playing in Mendoza, so someone else can take over.
Stonewall (aka Airmen Peak)
Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
RSS Feed
