Excellent route. Head up ramp and slabby moves to the roof. Pull through and head up more moderate climbing. Then the fun begins. Hard and awkward but fun moves lead up the arete. The clip here is pretty spicy, but the route can be toproped from "You Will Respect...". Once past the arete the climbing is moderate with a few thin moves below the anchors.
Location
Rightmost of the first three routes together. Starts on the ramp in alcove and moves out right.
This route was originally 5.10c. I believe it is 11- in the guidebook. I think it is definitely in the 10d range, I could agree with 11a though, definitely not solid 11. (not to start a ratings debate, just some info). That clip is definitely scary, but there is a way to make it a bit easier if you get your feet just right, iirc.
If you don't like the multiple cruxes, you get a 'simultaneous spanking'.
I might go 11a but it's not the same grade as, say, Steve's Arete. If this is 11a, Steve's is 10c or d. Not that Steve's should necessarily be the standard for 11a, but that seems to be the consensus. I thought it was considerably harder than any of the 10d's at Munchkinland, for example. Again, no reason for a ratings debate, it's all so subjective anyway, but that was my rationale for the rating I gave.
Southpark
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