This route ascends the huge, prominent left-facing corner near the south end of South Fin.
Start up the clean dihedral on thin fingers until you can get a stance for pro. Continue up through broken blocks, staying generally in the corner, until you come right under the large roof near the top.
While there are a couple of finishes, the most common is to move right under roof and up around corner. Continue up 15 feet to anchors.
While easily protected, this route is long and quite sustained, save for a couple good rests. It is also extremely fun! Some of the best crack moves around.
To descend, move back about ten feet to chains for Male Menopause, and rap down west face of South Fin back to start.
great climb.. the crux is really the first 15-20' but I have seen some people get sketched out stepping out onto the face from the roof. Pay attention to your runners and make sure you long sling under the roof!
This is one of the most exciting 5.9's that I have ever climbed. I used a very small nut to protect the first move. Use the chains on the left side at the top of the route. I didn't see them and used another set of chains 15 feet to the right, but there was too much drag.
By Phil Persson From: Golden, Colorado Jan 23, 2008
Did this route on 1-19-08; great climb, for me the crux was stepping out from under the lower roof into the crack, as well as a few tricky face moved down low. Overall though i thought it took very good pro and followed a great line; very fun long climb. One of the best 5.9's I've climbed for sure.
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ May 1, 2008 rating: 5.9
South Fin
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