Rev. Robert Mcleod, on the leaning pillar start of...
Description
The crux is near the top with rather trickey gear placements. The step off the pillar onto the face is easy and I've been told it can be protected with a (Green Alien).This route was originally led by "Charlie King" with only "2 bolts." A 3rd bolt has been added later on the crux. Partners are telling me another should be added due to the danger of a fall stepping out onto the face which would slam a leader onto the pillar below should one fall here although it's an easy move. Also been told it should be rated R if another is not added? The 3rd bolt being added was already controversial.
Location
First route encountered and can be indenitfied by looking for 2 bolts on a leaning pillar.
Protection
Nuts, micro camalots and long slings. 3 lead bolts/Chain Anchors.
By Jim Thompson From: Tucson, AZ Aug 28, 2006 rating: 5.8+ PG13
My first lead of this route, I didn't spot the small feature at the top of the pillar that would have provided some protection. When standing on the top of the pillar, the feature is at waist height and to the left. I tried both my green alien and pink tri-cam and both fit pretty well.
The moves through that section are not difficult, but it is slightly awkward and the potential for injury high. A fall from that spot without any protection would be a horrow show. 30 feet at least and plenty of stuff to hit on the way down.
Even if you protected at that feature, and you slipped off, you would fall 6-8 feet onto the pillar.
BTW, don't miss the second pitch from the anchors. Horny Lizards is a lot fun.
I'd add a bolt at the bottom. The rock and the flake are of low quality, and could rip if you blew the moves and the landing sucks. If your purpose is to show the world how burly you are, you should chop the other 3 bolts higher up. That would make a statement, but very few climbers would ever climb it. Your drilling bolts anyway... why not make it safe and fun for the fledgling 5.9 climber. The kind of climber that is going to hump down the hill to this area in the first place.
Jimbo, When we put up "Mixed Decisions," our intention was to keep it mostly trad. I added a bolt later on the crux which was controversial and have offered to remove it, but (Charlie) said don't worry about it.. I would be more than happy to make the modifications you mentioned after reading what you posted, because "it only makes sense." I will speak to my partners first and see if they would be ok with it. I value your suggestions about putting up routes as it only made some of them better in the past!
Andy, Do what you think would make the route better. I'm just making suggestions. Keep it up the more the marrier. You looking at the crags farther down the hill? I was thinking about putting some stuff up down there, but if you've already got your eyeballs on some lines I'll find another crag. Which, by the way, I did today......
San Pedro Wall
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