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Rupley Towers
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R1 

5.8+

   

FA: John and Ila Rupley, 1960's
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 120 feet
Views: 1,101 page views

Submitted By: Bobby Hanson on Dec 14, 2003


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P2 of R1


Description 

On the second tower from the North (Tower B in EFR's book), just to the right of a chimney (route: R2, 5.6+) you will see a ledge about 30 feet up with a tree and a two-bolt belay. (1) Climb up flake past left facing corner under a bolt to this ledge. (2) Climb straight up left facing corner to crack, then face to top of tower. You can descend to the back side easily with one rappel. If you need to return to the base of the route, you can probably BARELY reach the belay ledge from pitch 1 with a 60m rope. The second pitch is exactly 30m. Be careful, and knot the ends of your rope if you rap the route!


Protection 

Standard Rack. There is one bolt on the first pitch protecting the traverse. The last 30 feet of the route offers scant protection.



Photos of R1 Slideshow Add Photo
Eric on "Sheer Energy", which can also be used as an alternate first pitch to R-1

Eric on "Sheer Energy", which can also be used as ...


Comments on R1 Add Comment
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By Wes Turner
From: az
Jun 4, 2004
rating: 5.8

the first pitch is the .8 the rest is fairly easy .7 rap off west or north

By Wes Turner
From: az
Jun 4, 2004
rating: 5.8

my bad guys...i was talking about R-3 Ignore those comments above... Solid .8+..... NOVICE .8 leaders watch that move past the bolt on P1! You will feel gripped so make sure you protect in horizontal crack before reaching for bolt on face!! My advice is if you cannot clip the bolt on that face from the stance then get good pro in crack ( maybe two pieces) and just climb past the bolt cause stopping once you've started out on that face would be an easy way to take a whipper. It's up to you! enjoy!

By Ryan Myers
From: Tempe, Arizona
Apr 19, 2009

Awesome classic.. a must do at Mt. Lemmon